Teotihuacan is simply huge. Its central Avenue of the Dead cuts through nearly 2km of what were once thriving residences and temples and markets, ending at the impressive Pyramid of the Moon, a 43m-high structure that rises up from the horizon as you walk down the main thoroughfare. But it is its twin tower, the 71m-high Pyramid of the Sun, that dominates the landscape. The line to climb it is well worth the wait, not only for its spectacular views of what was once the largest city in Mesoamerica, but for the opportunity to role play as a an ancient Teotihuacano. Upon reaching the top, visitors throw their hands up toward the sun as if possessed by the spirit of some high priest giving featly to the gods. The more intoxicating experience is to look down on the Sunday crowds gathered around the base of the structure and channel the rush of power an emperor must have felt high above a hundred thousand cheering subjects.